Q. Hello Guys! First off, I am appreciative of the work that you all do. Keep it up!! I have a question: I am "fashion challenged" to say the least. lol. I am a brother who is about five nine and I have a huge muscular frame. My shoulders are about a 50 and my waist is 34-36. I have a difficult time finding clothing that "looks right" based on my proportions and by me being slightly shorter than average. Can you suggest anything? Jeans are particularly a problem.
- Signed, Helping Ken Out -
A. Ken, allot of guys have your same problem with proportions. Most designer brands don't take into account the wide variety of body types when they determine the fit of their respective clothing lines. Like most men with a beefy/muscular build, finding the right fit is critical. Here are a few steps you should always consider when making a purchase or before getting dressed.
The Right Shirt Size
For a man your height with very broad shoulders, finding the perfect button up off the rack may be near impossible or extremely expensive. Made to Measure is definitely the best investment here, especially if your nine-to-five requires a shirt and tie everyday. While it sounds expensive, you can actually have a shirt made to your exact proportions for around $75 - $90 at any Nordstroms. Invest in a few in different colors and patterns up front, then splurge on a new one every couple of months or so until you have a nice collection to work with.
The Right Jean/Pant
Most designer brands typically always cut their pants at a 34 length these days. Since you'll have to make a trip to the tailor for a hem anyway, buy slacks and denim that fit in the thigh and then have the waist taken in to fit your proportions.
The Right Jacket
When you're closer to the ground than most of the people around you, nothing emphasizes that more than a jacket that's too long. For a suit jacket, try this: stand with your arms at your side and if the bottom hem of the jacket is any longer than the crease between your fingers and your palm, have it taken up. For coats that are 3/4 length, they should be no longer than the tip of your fingers.
The Perfect Tailor
Find one good one and stick with them! The best way to do this is to go to any high end store - whether you're buying there or not - and ask who does their alterations. Anybody that's faithfully entrusted with adjusting $4,000 suit can definitely handle any request you throw at them. By working with one person on a regular basis, they will also learn your body and your proportions as well as what cut will look best on your frame.
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